The Material Culture of Wills, England 1540-1790

Will of the Month: a fashionable lady and her Cloath of Gold shoes

Posted by e.m.vine@exeter.ac.uk

23 April 2024

Our third will of the month, that of affluent fashionable lady Helen Spratt (d.1726), is as long and as detailed as that of the Lincolnshire farmer Ralph Wrighte [link], and is full of rich detail about Helen’s possessions and what they meant to her. She itemises silk dresses, crimson quilts, and chinaware, and sets out her intentions for her cherished gold wedding ring, and portraits of her grandparents. Despite listing a wealth of treasured objects, Helen’s will mentions far fewer beneficiaries than Ralph’s. Helen explained why she had a relatively small number of people to divide her estate between in her own words: ‘I have but very few Relations and fewer acquaintance’.

Read more: Will of the Month: a fashionable lady and her Cloath of Gold shoes
Excerpt from PROB 11/609/123, Will of Helen Spratt or Sprat, 13 May 1726.

Helen’s moving will therefore lays bare the losses she had suffered in life: she asked to be buried ‘by my dearest husband and best of friends Doctor Thomas Sprat who was Deane of Westminster and Bishopp of Rochester and where my two sonns lye by him’.[1] Helen’s son George had died as an infant in 1683, her husband Thomas in 1713 aged 77, and her son Thomas in 1720 aged 41. Helen lived another six years, and died aged 79.[2] Her closest surviving relatives, according to her will, were her nieces and nephews.

Helen, the daughter of Colonel Devereux Wolseley, had married a prominent clergyman and was buried alongside him, according to her wishes, in Westminster Abbey. Her detailed will reveals the personal and household possessions of a woman of some standing, of fashionable tastes and inherited wealth, who left many of her belongings to other women. To her niece by marriage, Christian Knipe, she left among other furniture ‘foure pieces of Tapestry hangings one great looking glass one dressing glass foure glass sconces
 four large wrought Curtaines lined with Crimson silke and Quilt of the same’. These were substantial and fashionable items: the list reveals that Helen owned more than one mirror (and that these mirrors had different uses), and decorative tapestries that likely covered the walls, (although as is usual for wills, we don’t have any further information about what these tapestries looked like, or the images or patterns they depicted). While ownership of decorative furnishings such as looking glasses was becoming more widespread in the early eighteenth century, the possession of two different types of mirror was still significant.[3] Alongside the ‘crimson silke’ curtains and quilts, we get the sense of a woman whose household furnishings comprised multiple decorative and luxury items.

To her niece Alicia Ross she left ‘a Box with China to be putt upp safe and sent to her if liveing and I give her my six new smocks
 my new black Lutestring scarfe and velvet scarfe
 one black silke Mantua and petticoat one striped silke Mantua and petticoat
 all my finest Aprons’. In this bequest Helen signalled her ownership of a range of items of fashionable clothing, identifying which items were newly purchased or made, which she considered the ‘finest’, and which were made of expensive materials of velvet and ‘lutestring’ or ‘lustring’ silk. We also see evidence of her engagement in global markets: her ownership of chinaware, and, in her instructions for it to be carefully packed, her awareness of both its fragility and value.

A china bowl and saucer that may have been similar to the pieces found in Helen’s ‘Box with China’. Bowl and Saucer, 1662-1722 (made). © Victoria and Albert Museum, https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O77989/bowl-and-saucer-unknown/

The next items listed, which were also set aside to be given to her niece Alicia Ross, are some of the most interesting in the will. She bequeathed ‘my Cloath of Gold shoes made of one of King James’s Buskins that was at his Coronation and one pair of Gold stuffe out of Queen Anns pall she wore at her Coronation’. We know that Helen’s husband was a senior clergyman, and his position as Dean of Westminster would have included involvement in coronations, but this is a surprising detail that suggests that Helen owned shoes that had been made from the gold buskins (a kind of boot) worn by King James II at his coronation. The ‘Gold stuffe’ of Queen Anne’s pall refers to a type of finely-woven wool that was a popular choice for clothing. These were striking and unique items that were described by Helen seemingly with a degree of pride. These entries appeared in the will not only with details of their appearance and materiality, but also their provenance. The will was a means of memorialising the origin and historical significance of these items of clothing, of putting the meaning of these objects in writing, and ensuring that their provenance was remembered as they were passed down to other generations of Helen’s family.

A pair of shoes that were perhaps similar to Helen’s ‘Cloath of Gold shoes’. Pair of shoes, 1740-1750, English, cream satin with gold braid © Victoria and Albert Museum, https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356904/pair-of-shoes-unknown/

Helen Spratt’s will was unusually forthcoming about the meaning or emotional resonance of her possessions, including those that had belonged to or had been associated with her late husband (and which may have ordinarily been passed down to the son who had pre-deceased her). In one bequest she left ‘to my deare husbands Nephew Mr Thomas Glover now liveing a student of Christ Church in Oxford
 I give him all the books my deare husband left me in his will’. Helen’s son Thomas had followed in his father’s ecclesiastical career, and would have been the likely recipient of these learned or theological books prior to his untimely death. In a separate bequest she gave ‘to my Nephew Knipe a little Chest that had all my husbands letters and paper in it’ – using this entry not solely to clearly identify the item of furniture, but to record its function and its personal and tactile connection to her deceased husband. Other bequests further reiterated Helen’s affection for her ‘deare’ late husband and the time of her marriage: ‘I give to my Neice Mrs Ann Done my Wedding Ring and wish her as happy if ever she has one as I was in mine’.

These seventeenth-century wedding rings may be similar to the one owned by Helen. Gold ring, 1600-1700 (made), England. © Victoria and Albert Museum, https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O118508/ring-unknown/

Helen ostensibly had so many possessions to disperse that she forgot some, and had to correct this with a later codicil that was added to her will three weeks after it was first drawn up. She noted ‘having forgot part of my furniture for my Chamber my husband gave me leave to take
 which I suppose nobody will believe was only a feather bed and blankets but what was fit for me as his wife’. This hints at the fact that some possessions continued to be viewed as belonging discretely to either the husband or the wife after marriage. It is possible that these items of furniture were also those that Helen has brought with her upon her marriage. In the codicil she also left her daughter-in-law several paintings: ‘they are my fathers picture and good old Grandfathers and Grandmothers drawne most them at least a hundred years agoe so of no great value but to me
 which pictures whether large or little to go still to those that have Children’. This is a striking clause that emphasises the deep sentimental value of these portraits, and her firm desire that they remained in the family, perhaps particularly pressing as Helen had no direct descendants. This clause also makes an interesting inference about the ‘value’ of paintings – that perhaps older artwork was considered to have less monetary value or artistic merit – and also emphasises the deep meaning an object could have for one individual but not another.

Helen Spratt’s will is extraordinary in many senses, including in its level of detail, and its itemising of fashionable and expensive clothing and furnishings which were inaccessible to much of English society. But most striking is that Helen appeared unusually forthcoming in setting out the emotional resonance of her possessions. She included descriptions of her ‘finest’ or ‘new’ clothing, she set out the provenance and meaning of family heirlooms or objects which signalled her connection to royalty. Most poignant are descriptions not of the most economically valuable items, but of objects associated with her late husband, or which would have ordinarily been passed down to her son. There are suggestions of a rethinking of legacies, and the passing down of family treasures and memories, to account for the children that did not survive, the grandchildren she did not have. Every object described in Helen Spratt’s will has some meaning either explicitly or implicitly attached, but most affecting were those items that could no longer be left to their original intended beneficiary.

Tm

Helena Sprat

 

In the Name of God Amen

October the Eighth One Thousand seaventeene hundred

Twenty foure I Helen Spratt Do make my last Will and Testament

in manner following ffrist I recommend my soule to the Great of

Heaven and Earth who gave it beseeching his divine Majesty to

pardon and forgive many and grievous sins of omission and

commission through the merits and intercession of my blessed

saviour and Redeemer the only Mediator between God and

man Christ Jesus And I desire it may be done to be buried

by my dearest Husband and best of friends Doctor Thomas

Sprat who was Deane of Westminster and Bishopp of Rochester

and where my two sonns lye by him I desire to be attended by

few I have but very few Relations and fewer acquaintance I

give to my niece Mrs Christian Knipe my Nephew Knipes

wife the furniture of my Chamber at her house the vicarage

at Bexley, foure pieces of Tapestry hangings one great looking

glass one dressing glass foure glass sconces one Cedar little

table two other little tables foure black velvet stooles two black

velvet Cushions three Cane Chaires fire Grates two fire

 

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ffender one and fire shovell Tonges and forke window Curtaines

Clock one feather bedd Bolster two great pillow three little ones

foure Blanketts four large wrought Curtaines lined with Crimson

silke and Quilt of the same foure out Curtaines of darke serge one

over the doore for my my maid one Chest Bedsteed feather bedd

carpett by the fireside one little press in the Garrett one black

Truncke for my lynnen and what course sheets and Table lynnen

are in it ^ and one chaire Trunke with some finer in it markes H:W: the

lynnen in both to be equally parted between her and my Nephew

Mr Thomas Knipe though it is not worth naming I give to my

nephew Mr Knipe out of the South Sea stock that shall fall to

my share after my daughter in Laws life One hundred pounds

and to his Children if he has any if not after his death to my

nephew Mr Thomas Knipe and his Child xxxxxxxxx

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I give to my daughter in law now Mr Wiats wife one hundred pound

that after her death will fall to me in that part of the stock subscribed

into the annuity I give to my niece Mrs Alicia Ross my Cabinet

that stands in the hall in my Nephew Knipes house in Bexly

and a Chest of Drawers that stands in the Garrett and a Box

with China to be putt upp safe and sent to her if liveing and I

give her my six new smocks one dozen of Cambrick handkercheifs

one new black alamode hood one white sarseuett hood one

dozen of white gloves one black silke Mantua and petticoat

one striped silke Mantua and petticoat One white satten

quilted coate of all my finest Aprons my Cloath of Gold shoes

and one pair of Gold stuffe out of Queen Anns pall she wore

at her Coronation I have no doubt but my daughter in law now

Mr Wyats wife will deliver the medalls I left in her care as

directed in papers and a letter I left with her to my Neices and

Nephews which I now name againe to my twoe nephew

Knipes to my niece Miss Ann Done now her good mother is

dead and to my deare husbands nephew Mr Thomas Glover

now liveing a student of Christ Church in Oxford and I give

him all the books my deare husband left me in his will And I

give to my Neice Mrs Ann Done my Wedding Ring and wish

her as happy if ever she has one as I was in mine And I give

the medalls to my niece Alicia Ross that has her name upon them

I knoe Mrs Wyat to be a woman ~~~~~ of Justice and

I therefore she will make good what I so earnestly desired of her

I give my niece Mrs Ann Done King Charles the seconds little

virtue in Ivory sett in Gold of my good Grandmothers’ the Lady

Wolseleys Wedding Ring I give to my Nephew Mr Thomas

Knipe six silver spoons I bought when I lived with my son at

the prebends house in Deanes yard and my little silver Can to

his son they were bought some yeares after I was an unhappy

widow so I hope I may have them though I have given an exact

accompt of all I have already in several papers when the goods

are paid for at Bexly the money that arises there and when

 

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the pictures are all sold of which part of them I designed for good

Doctor John ffreind my part in them I still give to him lett Mr Wyatt

do what he thinks fit in the other and when both the summs are

gathared to be putt out and the halfe that that shall come to me after

my daughter in laws death to my share fifty pounds of it to my

good Cousin Low who had beene so kind and carefull of my small

affaires and earnestly desire he will be Trustee to see it performed

and what comes to my share either in the Southsea stock or that

is subscribed into the annuitys or that will rise from the goods

sold at Bexly or from the pictures after what I have first given in

the stock and annuitys be given to my deare husbands Nephew

Mr Thomas Glover if he lives to one and Twenty and if he

dyes before then to his Uncle Mr Thomas Spratt and his Aunt

Mrs Susan Seddon and his mother Mrs Gartrude Glover the use

to be equally divided and to the longest liver of them and after

their death to my deare husbands sisters Brands children Mr

Jonathan Brand and his Children I thinke they live in Branstable

in Devonshire or near it and their names two of them being

marryed the ones name Mrs Mary Gribble the other Mrs Sarah

Jwell the others name I know not and to be equally divided to

them or their Children if my Nephew Glover dyes without

Children I give my daughter in Law Mrs Wyat the Bible my dear

husband gave me that he carryed at Queen Anns Coronation

for her life I suppose she has not forgott the agreement and then

to give it to my Nephew Mr Thomas Knipe or his son for my

good husband gave me leave by his will to take what I would of

English books but I tooke none but what he gave me himselfe

some years before he dyed I leave my Nephew Mr Knipe and my

deare husbands Nephew Mr Thomas Glover my Executors to see

this my Will performed Witness hand the Tenth of October One

thousand seaven hundred twenty foure Helen Sprat.

Now as to my funerall the two hundred pounds my good Cozen

Lowe put out for me I desire may be sold to pay my ffunerall

charges or what expenses in my sickness or may do wages or any

other debts I may owe I sett Downe now how I would be buried.

I desire a good Elme Coffin with no more Hinges then to keepe

it fast together covered with black Cloath on the outside of five

shillings a yard and a shroud of a Guinea and halfe at most and

to give to the poore where I dye fourty shillings and hope I

shall lye where my deare husband and two sonns lye in the

Abby Church of Westminster only a Hearse and six horses

and one Coach and six horses if I dye in the Country and to

be brought into the Abby Church in Evening Prayer and to be

buried by daylight And if the two Doctor friends will do me

the favour to hold my pall and Doctor Gee and Mr Evans and

Doctor Broderick or who my Cousin Low thinks fitt and my

nephew Knipe for I know none doe now there but I leave it all

to them to doe as they thinke most proper I desire if when my

funerall charges is discharged and my debts paid that my

executors will if the money will allow it to buy a plaine silver

Cupp of about sixteene or seaventeene poundes and only putt

my deare husbands and my arms as us upon the steele seal

 

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I have and make a present of it to my nephew Knipe for his and

her kindness to me while I was with them and I desire as little

expence as possible at my funerall so that if the money will allow to

give my deare husbands nephew Mr Thomas Sprat and his two

neices Mrs Susan Seddon and Mrs Gartrude Glover and his nephew

Mr Thomas Glover five pound a piece to buy them mourning

if my niece Ross should not be living when I dye then the

Cabinet and China and Walnut Chest of drawers to my nephew

Mr Thomas Knipe or to which of them survives or their Children

I give to my nephew Knipe a little Chest that has all my husbands

letters and papers in it and after his death to my nephew Mr

Thomas Knipe or his son but never to lett any of them to be

seen and in the same is a Bagg wrought with redd worsted sealed

with some little papers of mine which he must not lett be seen

but left to his brother Mr Thomas Knipe Helen Sprat October

the Thirteenth 1724. I give to my Maide that lives with me

now Dorothy Keaill or if any other at my death all my lynnen

of constant weare that lyes in my Chest of drawers of all sorts

and Wollen and peticoats and wastcoates and shoes and stockins

and gloves and hoods except those herebefore named my two

grey silke quilted petticoats my Norwich mantua and petticoat

my striped white Gowne and petticoate my night Gowne and

petticoate Witness my hand the day and yeare above written

Helen Spratt. I give to my Neice Ross if liveing my sable Tippet

and Muffe and three white dimetty petticoates Helen Sprat

I give to my nephew Mr Knipe the Originall Association of

Robert Youngs plott and my Coate of Armes that hangs in my

Chamber at his house in Bexly and to his brother after his

death or his Children he haveing none himselfe and I give my

nephew Mr Knipe my Grandfather Sr John Rouch his pedigree

I lent my Neice Done and a booke of my good husbands

sermons writ in his owne hand these I desire Mrs Done to

have safe delivered to my nephew Knipe or to his brother Mr

Thomas Knipe the peice at the Bottome I cut off my selfe

having wrote the same thing twice witness my hand Helen

Sprat. If when Mr Wyat has settled the little affaire betwixt

us I am allowed any thing as I suppose I may have something

more to give I will make a Codicill to this my Will and

Testament I have sett my hand and seal this fourteenth day

of October One thousand seaventeene hundred and twenty

foure Helen Sprat. Signed and sealed in the presence of

Dorothy Neale Eliz. Easton John Hallett

 

October the Thirtyeth One thousand seaventeene

hundred and twenty foure it being the happy day of my life

so long as my good husband and son lived I begin to add a

Codicill as I said in my Will I would and haveing forgot part of

my ffurniture for my Chamber my husband gave me leave

to take his debts being paid which I suppose nobody will

believe was only a feather bed and blankets but what was

fit for me as his wife they are my fathers picture and good

 

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old Grandfathers and Grandmothers drawne most of them at least

a hundred years agoe so of no great value but to me and which

most of them hang in my Chamber at Bexly and all in my

Chamber at my daughters house in old Bond Streete and Closet

there which pictures whether large or little to go still to those that

have Children and the hundred pound I give to my daughter in

Law now Mrs Wiat in that part of South sea stock subscribed into

the annuitys if my daughter dyed before which is not very

probable I still have in my owne power to dispose on Witness

my name Helen Sprat the day before written. November the

seaventh 1724. I give to my maid that lives with me at my

death my Camblet Cloake and head to it and my little Clocke and straw

hive the Mantle I said was in a haire Trunke is in the Chest

where my good husbands papers are I give to my little

nephew Thomas Knipe a gold seale that has in a Cornelian

Queene Marys and King Williams heads and the mourning

Ring Mr Done gave me with his wife haire in it witness

my name H: Sprat. January the seaventh One thousand

seaventeen hundred Twenty five and six I write downe

this that I sold my Watch sometime agoe for the reasons I have

already given of doctors and expences which are all sett

downe to a halfe penny in my accompt booke and a little old

booke my Maid kept till I could write them downe my selfe

and she had beene very faithfull to me I desire they may be

both given with my keys to my good Cousin Low who knows

my hand witness my hand the day and yeare above written

H: Sprat signed and sealed the same day by the name of the

underwritten Susan Pope John Newington. If neither of my

nephew Knipes have Children then to my Deare husbands

Nephew ^Mr Thomas Glover now student in Christ Oxford and

if he has no children then to my Neice Alicia Ross if she has any

and if she has none then to my good cousin Lowe and his

Children and none of them what they have either South Sea

stock or annuitys but to go from one to the other as ordered

by this my Will but none to sell but my daughter in Law now

Mrs Wyat December the Three and twentyeth One thousand

seaventeene hundred Twenty foure witness my hand Helen

Spratt signed sealed the seaventh of ffebruary one thousand

seaventeene hundred twenty foure and five This is my

Codicill I have added John Hallett Eliz Easton Dorothy Neale

This is now sealed witness these two last hands of Susan Pope

and John Newington Helen Sprat.

 


[1] PROB 11/609/123, Will of Helen Spratt or Sprat, 13 May 1726  

[2] Morgan, John. “Sprat, Thomas (bap. 1635, d. 1713), bishop of Rochester.” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. 23 Sep. 2004; Accessed 8 Jan. 2024. https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/26173 ; https://www.westminster-abbey.org/abbey-commemorations/commemorations/thomas-sprat

[3] Lorna Weatherill, Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660-1760, (London, 1996), p.33.

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